Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days

Blacked-out watches have a strong following. They look and feel like utility pieces, and their high-end offerings are geared to combat the elements and to withstand demanding environments. The new Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Ceramica fits this niche rather nicely, and adds something watch-nerds seem to adore: a central minute hand.

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When it comes to watches, black on black is hardly ever a formal get up. But that’s a good thing when it comes to Panerai, because Panerai has its roots deep in naval history. It strictly started out as a tool watch for Italian sailors (literally for frogmen riding torpedoes in the dead of night) who needed large, robust and legible timepieces to be worn over their wetsuits.

The new Luminor Ceramica doesn’t venture far from that origin. The case comes in at 44 mm, which, although ample, is surprisingly light. This is because it’s made out of a synthetic ceramic based on zirconium oxide. This material is five times harder than steel, and is much lighter. It’s also very resistant to scratches, corrosive agents and high temperatures – a logical leap, given that zirconium oxide has to be fired at temperatures as high as 1500° C in order to synthesize into its ceramic form. The case is then bead-blasted to attain a matte finish.


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Bell & Ross Vintage BR 123 GMT

Bell & Ross is not only producing the rectangular aviation watches, but also has a fine collection of other models like the vintage series and the WW1 and WW2 collection (covered here and here). For me personally, the Vintage BR collection is very attractive as they offer very clean round watches at an interesting price point. Today, I will show you the Bell & Ross Vintage BR 123 GMT 24H that Bell & Ross sent us just before the holidays.

During a diner with Bell & Ross not too long ago, they showed me a number of new models that were either just released or about to be released. One of the watches that drew my attention was this Bell & Ross Vintage BR 123 GMT 24H. Quite a mouth full, but in fact is a very modest and clean-looking timepiece with one of the most important complications for mechanical watches – a second time zone.


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Recently we featured this Bremont ALT1-WT World Timer that basically does the same as this GMT watch, indicating another time zone using an extra hour hand. However, where a World Timer watch like the Bremont has a dial filled with information about 24 different cities in 24 time zones (and a chronograph in this case), the Bell & Ross Vintage 123 GMT is a more modest timepiece that has much more the presence of a ‘tool watch’.

I won’t be insulting anyone or any brand if I write here that this Bell & Ross Vintage BR GMT seems to be inspired by the Rolex Explorer II Steve McQueen model. Even though the case shape and size are different, the beautiful matt finished 24 hour bezel and large orange 24 hour hand are clearly inspired by it. The dial with the large Arabic numerals reminded me of the 36mm Rolex Explorer (reference 114270) that my wife wears regularly.


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Tudor Heritage Black Bay Midnight Blue Review

When we first saw the Tudor Heritage Black Bay a few years ago (2012), we knew that Tudor had gold in its hands. An amazing timepiece that was inspired by Tudor’s own heritage (we did a report here and here on their vintage pieces). This year, http://www.jmontres.com/tag-heuer-replique-43.html just one day before the BaselWorld exhibition opened, we were invited to witness the new & old collection of Tudor. They decided to come back with a new version of the Heritage Black Bay, this time in the wonderful Midnight Blue color.

Although we already showed you the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Midnight Blue watch in this previous post, we were able to wear the watch ourselves for a couple of weeks and will now share our findings and photos with you.

Perhaps I should start by saying that the introduction of the Heritage Black Bay in 2012 was a very welcome one. Although the vintage Tudor Submariner watches are highly sought-after and collectors willing to pay impressive amounts of money for them, continuing the Tudor Submariner model would make no sense.

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The Tudor Submariner used the same case, crown and bracelet as the regular Rolex Submariner models. Basically, only the dial and movement were different from Rolex’ Submariner.


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A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon

2014 celebrates 20 years of A. Lange & Söhne's iconic Lange 1 watch. It was launched when A. Lange & Söhne relaunched in the early 1990s, and today remains their most distinctive timepiece with its balanced, yet asymmetric dial. In honor of the 20th Anniversary of the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1, the German watch maker has released a limited edition version of its Lange 1 Tourbillon, known as the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst ref. 704.048F, in platinum with a black enamel dial.

The Lange 1 Tourbillon was released six years after the original Lange 1, in 2000. Nevertheless, A. Lange & Söhne wanted to feature the Lange 1 Tourbillon as the basis of their new 20th Anniversary model. They also decided to incorporate the new limited edition watch into their "Handwerkskunst" collection - which takes their "standard" models and imbues them with a lot of hand-decorated engravings. This Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst model doesn't have as much hand-engraving as some other models, but I feel that the amount of decoration is appealing, and it is limited to the movement side of the case.

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As you might know, A. Lange & Söhne watches with black dials are uncommon. There are only a handful, and this new limited edition joins the ranks of an exclusive lot. In this case, the black dial of the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst is enamel painted and should look fantastic in person. We look forward to seeing these models soon, and I am personally excited to see how the dials came out. If my suspicions are correct, the contrast and legibility on the dial should be really impressive.

The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon case is a modest 38.5mm wide, and here, in solid platinum. It is joined to a black alligator strap and should wear quite nicely for most people. I particularly enjoy how the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1's off-centered dial has aged. I am personally not a huge fan of many asymmetrical watches, but this is among the exceptions. One of the things I like is the clarity and simplicity of the dial for the time itself, which is made just a bit more interesting with the also off-centered subsidiary seconds dial inside of it.


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Uniform Wares C41 Chronograph

UK-based Uniform Wares has made a name for itself with modern watches designed with sterile dials (no text) and slick looks that are based on classic timepiece design principles. For a while, Uniform Wares has teased a move to a complete "Swiss Made" production, and now at the end of 2014, the re-vamped collection of all Swiss Made Uniform Wares products is available. Yes, it does mean a slight hike in Uniform Wares watches prices, http://www.cnmontres.com/cartier-montres-c-2.html but it should also mean a hike in overall quality and finishing.

The brand is still dedicated to their own brand of high-end quartz, so we are still talking about mostly sub $1,000 prices. Having said that, these new C-Line C41 Chronograph watches top out at about $1,600 (around 1,000 GBP) depending on the model. The Uniform Wares Swiss Made collection will currently be distributed between two model families (the M-Line and C-Line collections) which each have a range of models contained within. I believe that, for a while, some of the legacy Uniform Wares models continue to be available.

At present, the current flagship models will be within the Uniform Wares C41 Chronograph collection of watches. There are actually nine distinct models available when you combine the various strap options for the PVD black and gold C41/SRG-01, PVD gold C41/SGO-01, and steel with PVD gray bezel C41/SRG-01 pieces. Each of the three versions are available with a matching rubber, leather, or Milanese mesh metal bracelet.

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At 41mm wide, Uniform Wares hopes to maximize appeal in what they consider to be a unisex model. I really like the classic shape of the Uniform Wares C41 Chronograph married to the clean multi-level dial. You also get a rare two-register quartz chronograph with a Swiss Made Ronda movement. The lighter dialed Uniform Wares C41 Chronograph models should prove to have really fantastic legibility thanks to the applied black-colored hour markers and matching hands. While I am not typically a fan of sterile dials, I tend to make exceptions for Uniform Wares timepieces that for me almost single-handedly give merit to the aesthetic concept.

When it comes to straps, the story actually gets a bit deeper, as there are more options than meet the eye. There are many animal skin options available when it comes to the leather straps available for not just the Uniform Wares C41 Chronograph pieces, but other Uniform Wares watch models. Currently available are Cordovan leather, alligator, stingray, and Nappa leather strap options in addition to the rubber and Milanese bracelet options.

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Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Dragon Pocketwatch

 

Piaget launches is releasing a huge line of high-end year of the Dragon themed timepieces for the Chinese market.http://www.ko-watches.net/breitling-replica-25.html The Dragon is one of the most ancient and sacred Chinese totems, symbolising at once the identity of the nation and the highest achievements of Chinese civilisation.

One of the timepiece is this Altiplano Tourbillon Dragon Pocket watch. The pocket watch will have a square case and tourbillon movement.

To create the watch, the Enamel Master has used just two grand feu enamel colours: black for the background and Limoges white enamel for the dragon.The enamel is relatively translucent and the more intense white hues are achieved exclusively by superimposing layers.



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The shades of grey are achieved exclusively by superimposing layers. The shades of grey are achieved by stretching the white enamel to create a transparent effect.

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Omega Seamaster James Bond 50th Anniversary

To celebrate fifty years of James Bond films, Omega is releasing a special update of  their Seamaster Diver 300m James Bond watch.The watch offers Omega’s caliber 2507 co-axial movement, with the winding rotor designed to look like a bullet. It’s also inscribed with ’50 years of James Bond.’

The James Bond 50th Anniversary watch has been created in two sizes, 41 mm and  36 mm. The 36mm case size has a diamond index at the 7 o’clock position.

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The 41 mm version is being produced in a limited edition of 11’007 pieces and the 36 mm version in a limited edition of 3’007 pieces.No mention of price as yet, but as both a classic watch and a limited edition, this is unlikely be one of the cheaper watches on the market.

Interestingly, 2012 marks the 50th anniversary of the James Bond film series — though fifty years ago Bond was not wearing an Omega at all.The classic timepiece has been worn by 007 in every adventure since GoldenEye, when it replaced the Rolex Submariner.

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