Thursday 25 December 2014

Blancpain Villeret 12 Day Flying Tourbillon Caliber 242

Blancpain Villeret Flying Tourbillon platinum case enamel dial

Not a lot of pomp and circumstance out of Blancpain this year, but as usual the manufacture from Le Brassus does not disappoint with its new year lineup.  This is the second of five new pieces from Blancpain this year, and believe it or not it is not the most complicated of the Le Brassus manufacture’s new pieces this year.   This is not to say it is not an impressive watch, because it is.  The new Villeret Tourbillon is set in a 42mm platinum case and is distinguished by a dial-side 60-second flying tourbillon with silicon balance-spring and a gorgeously decorated caliber on the back side.

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Reflecting the Villeret collection identity, the dial and the painted Roman numerals are in grand feu enamel, with openworked sage leaf-shaped hands.  12 jours equals 12 days in English, a nod to the impressive power reserve of the caliber 242.


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Blancpain Fifthy Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph

Blanpcain Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph

Before we get to the last of Blancpain’s new additions to the 2014 Villeret collection, let’s switch it up with a look at the new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscape Chronograph. http://www.cnmontres.com/cartier-montres-c-2.html The Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe line debuted last year in basic 3-handed models & steel cases. 

This year the line is really stepped up with a satin-brushed black ceramic case and ceramic bezel. On top of this, Blancpain has fitted this watch with a new automatic mechanical manufacture caliber — the Blancpain Cal. F385.  The Cal. F385 is a column wheel chronograph with vertical clutch; it has a silicon balance spring and beats at 36,000 vph.  Moreover, this is a water-resistant chronograph — the pushers are constructed to enable use underwater to depths of 300 meters.  Exceptional features for a chronograph watch.

The domed black dial is free of any numerals, punctuated only by lines and dots serving as hour-markers, while the date appears in a window at 4 o’clock.  There is a sunburst finish on the dial (seen more easily on the above image) and snailed chronograph counters.  The rectangular hands are reminiscent of those featured on the 1950s Bathyscaphe models.

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Like last year’s 3-handed Bathyscaphe models, this year’s flyback chrono has a unidirectional ceramic rotating bezel with graduated scale in LiquidMetal (a high-tech metal that first popped up in the Omega SMPO in 2009, but has also been used by Breguet and Blancpain — all are Swatch Group brands).

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Monday 22 December 2014

TAG Heuer Carrera McLaren 1974 Edition

TAG Heuer Carrera McLaren 1974 Edition

TAG Heuer insider blog Calibre 11 brings us a first look at a new and great looking watch from TAG Heuer.  The TAG Heuer Carrera McLaren 1974 Edition pays tribute to the 40th anniversary of McLaren’s first Formula 1 World Title with Emerson Fittipaldi behind the wheel.  The young Brazilian would of course go on to become one of the sports more acclaimed drivers.   The TAG Heuer Carrera McLaren is has TAG’s in-house Calibre 1887 and is very similar to the 43mm Carrera 1887 Ceramic Bezel save for its new tyre-tread strap and color set.

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Chopard Superfast Chrono Porsche 919 Edition

Hands On the Chopard Superfast Chrono Porsche 919 Watch

As Official Timing Partner of Porsche Motorsport,Replica Chopard Watch was alongside the German team for its big return to the 24 Hours of Le Mans last week.   Though it fell short of the winners podium, Porsche remains the winningest manufacturer in the history of the 24 Hours of Le Mans, with 16 victories to its name.  To mark Porsche’s return to the event after more than a decade away, Chopard dedicated a limited-edition Superfast chronograph to this landmark event: the Superfast Chrono Porsche 919 Edition.

45mm steel case (15.2mm thick), screw-locked crown with black rubber-clad steering wheel motif, sapphire case-back bearing engraved “Official Timing Partner Porsche Motorsport” inscription, automatic mechanical Chopard Cal. 03.05-M (flyback chronograph), “919” logo in the 9 o’clock counter on the silvered, etched dial.


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Monday 15 December 2014

Blancpain “Ocean Commitment” Bathyscaphe Chronograph

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronograph Flyback Ocean Committment

Well it’s been a big week (the new Patek Grandmaster Chime grand comp, and the similarly impressive Vacheron Constantin I showed you before that), but believe me there are many more watches in my queue to show you.  Like this one.  So let’s switch gears a bit and look at this new release from Blancpain.   It has a mouthful of a name — officially the “Blancpain Ocean Commitment Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph” — and there’s a reason for that, as I will explain in more detail below.   But the other exciting there here is that this watch is yet another piece with Blancpain’s new high-frequency, in-house chronograph, the F385.  I really like this caliber.




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Aesthetically, the Ocean Commitment Bathyscaphe Flyback is housed in a satin brushed gray ceramic case, with a ceramic crown and ceramic chronograph pushers and a unidirectional blue ceramic rotating bezel marked with liquidmetal indexes.  The blue color theme is carried over to the dial, which offers three subdials for the chronograph counters and small seconds display. On the back of the watch, the movement and winding rotor are visible through the clear case back. The winding this limited series bearing the logo for the Ocean Commitment.

This watch is beautifully designed and proportioned in every way.  And it is a limited, numbered edition of only 250 pieces, the first in a series of LE’s as part of the Ocean Commitment initiative.  More looks and det’s below.


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Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde SW Steel

jaquet droz grande seconde SW blue gray

Unveiled with three new dial colors earlier this year, Jaquet Droz describes the Grande Seconde SW Steel as a “subtle mix of cool elegance.”   Looking at the watch, however, you’d be hard pressed to find that subtleness, as the dial pops with a gadget-y tech look that recalls a robot’s face and everything other than the understated praise that Jaquet Droz showers the design with.

On the other hand, at 45mm (41mm also available), the watch is a big chunk of steel and has the appropriate looks to go with it. The striped, Omega Aqua Terra-like dial glistens as light strikes it from different angles, and the peculiar shape of the case—especially when viewed from the rear—works better than expected with the rest of the design. Frankly, there’s nothing elegant about it, either, but that’s not the point—the watch is a rare instance where a mishmash of elements come together to form something surprisingly coherent.   So yes, although Kyle briefly previewed this watch back in February, I am here to offer a different take on it today, now that it is available in the marketplace.


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Powering the watch is Jaquet Droz’ own 2263A-S automatic movement with an 18-karat gold rotor and 68 hours of power reserve; meaning the timepiece will survive a weekend off the wrist and still be churning along when the work week starts back up. And that’s a smart move on Jaquet Droz’ part because power reserves keep increasing as companies release new watches. Competition fosters excellent movements such as this, and we can expect many more in the future, not only from Jaquet Droz, but across the high-end watch industry.

Ultimately, the Grande Seconde SW Steel is an odd bird for company primarily known for elegant timepieces like the Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel and the Bird Repeater. But somehow—just somehow—the watch works within Jaquet Droz’ design nomenclature despite being the ugly duckling of the bunch. It’s equally appealing and unattractive at the same time. It’s impossible to look just once.


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Wednesday 10 December 2014

The Parmigiani Tonda 1950

Parmigiani Fleurier 1950 Tonda Squelette Models

Here’s a first look at one of Parmigiani Fleurier’s new pieces coming next year, the Tonda 1950 Squelette (skeleton). http://www.watchdemo.net/breitling-watches-c-25.html The timepiece reveals the intricate mechanism of the brand’s extra-thin (7.8mm) and iconic model, and is available for both men and women, both 39mm.   While the Tonda 1950 line typically adheres to a classic dress aesthetic (simple dials, 2- or 3-hands, little if any lume, etc.), the skeleton dial (somewhat reminiscent of Piaget’s superb Altiplano 1200S skeleton watch) is where Parmigiani has ventured outside traditionalism’s cozy comfort zone to give this piece its real definition.

The Men’s version of the Tonda 1950 Squelette is available in white gold or rose gold, with a black or tan Hermès strap.Surprisingly, this watch does have a dial, made of sapphire, with an outer edge is metal which serves to hide the attachment points of the movement and the case.   And, look close, and you can see the platinum micro-rotor of the manufacture caliber PF705 is now visible from the dial side.

Parmigiani’s own PF705 movement powers both watches, with a reserve of 42 hours. In a time where watchmakers are bringing bigger numbers to the table this doesn’t seem impressive, but when you think about it, a hefty power reserve isn’t usually necessary for a dress watch. Many are used so infrequently that the wearer doesn’t need the watch to run for more than a day.

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Wednesday 3 December 2014

Bell & Ross Vintage BR 123 GMT 24H

Bell & Ross Vintage BR 123 GMT 24H Review

Bell & Ross is not only producing the rectangular aviation watches, but also has a fine collection of other models like the vintage series and the WW1 and WW2 collection (covered here and here). For me personally, the Vintage BR collection is very attractive as they offer very clean round watches at an interesting price point. Today, I will show you the Bell & Ross Vintage BR 123 GMT 24H that Bell & Ross sent us just before the holidays.

During a diner with Bell & Ross not too long ago, they showed me a number of new models that were either just released or about to be released. One of the watches that drew my attention was this Bell & Ross Vintage BR 123 GMT 24H. Quite a mouth full, but in fact is a very modest and clean-looking timepiece with one of the most important complications for mechanical watches – a second time zone.


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Recently we featured this Bremont ALT1-WT World Timer that basically does the same as this GMT watch, indicating another time zone using an extra hour hand. However, where a World Timer watch like the Bremont has a dial filled with information about 24 different cities in 24 time zones (and a chronograph in this case), the Bell & Ross Vintage 123 GMT is a more modest timepiece that has much more the presence of a ‘tool watch’.

I won’t be insulting anyone or any brand if I write here that this Bell & Ross Vintage BR GMT seems to be inspired by the Rolex Explorer II Steve McQueen model. Even though the case shape and size are different, the beautiful matt finished 24 hour bezel and large orange 24 hour hand are clearly inspired by it. The dial with the large Arabic numerals reminded me of the 36mm Rolex Explorer (reference 114270) that my wife wears regularly.


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Sinn EZM 9 TESTAF

Sinn EZM 9 TESTAF   Hands On Review

There have been mission timers for different purposes, like diving, flying and border control (like the illustrious GSG 9 models). However the design and construction demands were mostly determined by Sinn them selves, probably supplemented by a third party who had special interest in a certain EZM watch for their specific use, or certain DIN or ISO specifications. Now however two EZM models were constructed and designed additionally by the (relatively new, 2012) technical standard for pilots watches, http://www.watchgoing.com/rolex-c-63.html TESTAF. We had the pleasure to receive one of them, the Sinn EZM 9 for an extensive review.

First something on the TESTAF certification. TESTAF was developed by the Technical University of Aachen in Germany, in close cooperation with several companies in the aviation and watch industry. This certification determines the regulations wrist-pilot watches with analogue time display have to fulfill in the civil air traffic in regard to visual- (VFR) and instrument- (IFR) flight rules.

The most significant requirements, or at least the ones who influence the design and construction of a TESTAF certified pilot watch the most, are in the following fields: not interfering with the operation if the aircraft; not being affected by the physical stress of regular flying or by unexpected malfunctioning of the aircraft; the ability to operate as the primary time measurement instrument to enable the pilot to plan and execute any necessary time-related flight manoeuvres.


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Further requirements are for daylight and night readability, pressure and under-pressure resistance, G-force resistance, accuracy at different temperature ranges, resistance against specified vibrations, resistance against contact with kerosene, isopropyl alcohol, ethylene- and propylene glycol, and the inability to influence the magnetic compass in the aircraft.



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