Nubeo Women’s Jellyfish Watch

Please enjoy the original article below by established watch writer Meehna Goldsmith. From magazines to the freer writing form of the web, she is a knowledgeable watch junkie who knows high-end pieces.  She contributes to publications such as Robb Report, International Watch, Watch Journal and Pink Magazine. You can visit her on her website www.meehnagoldsmith.com. I first wrote about the Jellyfish line from Nubeo here, with some hands-on images.

I’m pretty picky when it comes to women’s watches. Nine times out of ten, I prefer the men’s models over the ladies, because ladies watches are usually men’s watches dressed up in opulent drag and placed in a smaller case size. I also don’t like a lot of jewels on my watches (in my watches is A-okay). When I saw the Nubeo line of women’s timepieces, which includes some major sparklies, I had to backtrack immediately. I got a rush like I was a kid on a playground whisking down a slide. Wheee!!! I was in major covet mode and couldn’t wait to try them on.


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Nubeo is a small, independent company that was launched by the effervescent and impassioned Spaniard Ivan (pronounced Ee-Vaughn) Castro in 2003. You can’t talk to him without getting a contact energy high. Perhaps because Castro is a jewelry designer and a naval engineer, he was able to bring a unique interpretation to the watch dial and case. The shape is like nothing I’ve ever seen, resembling that graceful underwater beauty the jellyfish.

Traditionally, haute horlogerie (high watchmaking) focuses on movement design and finishing. It’s not that the case and dial didn’t get attention, they just weren’t the stars of the show. Castro flipped the centuries-old notion on its head and asked why haute horlogerie couldn’t apply to the case. He gives a very compelling answer with his watches.


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H. Moser & Cie Perpetual 1 Watch

This watch isn't exactly new but recently made some headlines by winning the prestigious Golden Unruh (golden balance) award by one of Germany's top watch magazines as voted by the public. You can see how people could like this watch. It is very pretty, and as I will discuss, it has some awesome mechanics behind it. http://www.watchesming.net/rolex-watches-replica-c-78.html The design is pretty classic, but has a polished sense of refinement that makes it a bit sexy, and very refined. Part of this is due to the fat leaf style hands that look nice against the thin and demure baton hour markers.

H. Moser & Cie is perhaps a brand you haven't heard of before. They are a smaller company, but I have been noticing more and more advertising from them - so they are getting orders or funding from somewhere. Actually, I understand that H. Moser is one of the people that helped make IWC what it is. The connection between IWC and Moser isn't exactly great these days as I understand it. It is true that as a smaller brand with a very complex watch - quality control issues are going to be of concern. At the same time, given the popularity of the piece, combined with the fact that it has been around for a few years, it is likely that H. Moser & Cie has been able to work some of the  kinks out of the mechanism. The movement is all in-house made.

The unique manually wound HMC341  movement has a power reserve of 7 days, a power reserve indicator on the dial, and a perpetual calendar. Have you ever seen a more neatly integrated perpetual calendar mechanism before? Plus, the perpetual calendar is really complex because it can be set forwards and backwards. I also think that you have no mechanical penalties for adjusting the calendar anytime of day. The beautifully designed face has two large leaf-shaped hands and a smaller center arrow hand. That smaller hand is a month indicator (using the hours markers to indicate the 12 months). Then you have a power reserve indicator balanced out by the date on the opposite end. While the date is not a "big date," the disc has larger font so it looks like one almost. Then you have a large subsidiary seconds dial on the face. Just marvelous. On the rear of the watch you have a leap year indicator on the movement. That is it, how cool? A fully functional perpetual calendar that is barely noticeable.

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BVLGARI Diagono X-Pro Watch

Bvlgari, err... Bulgari always looks better in all caps right? While I have been seeing lots of confused designs from Bulgari as of late, this Diagono X-Pro is something I am not at all confused about liking (which is to say that I do like it). The cool masculine watch takes a few lessons from the polished looks of the Bulgari design play book, and adds a testosterone powered stamp of approval on it. When it comes down to it, while this is a great watch in and of itself, it feels like Bulgari's answer to the Hublot Big Bang. http://www.watchesming.net/tag-heuer-replica-c-31.html Not only in design, but also when it comes to the "fusion" of materials. Bulgari knows that with its performance over the last few years and the current economy, it can't dick around. It needs to give people what they want - which is apparently still luxury sport watches.

One thing that is hard to tell is that the middle section of the case is actually all black - all DLC black for that matter. Now even Bulgari is on the DLC bandwagon. Another wave goodbye to PVD. Just part of this complex case. Below you will see an "explosion" image of the case - which is made out of 104 parts. I love it that some watch cases are 2 or 3 parts, and some are over 100 parts. The most complex case winner is still the Nubeo Black Mamba. The Diagono X-Pro is 45mm wide, with a case made out of steel, DLC coated steel, and titanium. There is also rubber coatings on the crown and chronograph pushers (in addition to the rubber strap). The front and back of the watch have sapphire crystals (front crystal is highly AR coated).

Now things get interesting with sapphire... the dial is sapphire as well. Black colored sapphire with three levels of superimposed elements on it. It should have glass-like finish to it, without too much glare, and the white numerals and hour indicators should "pop" really nicely. Hints of red color add to the sporty appeal. In addition to elements from other Bulgari designs, and Hublot, there is a little bit of Richard Mille influence in the mix.I have a feeling the dial will turn out to be quite great looking.

Aside from the fancy case and design, the movement is quite interesting. A hybrid of in-house elements and use of 'ol reliable - the Valjoux 7750. What Bulgari does is build on the Valjoux 7750 to create the Calibre BVL 312. Lots of stock ETA parts from the 7750 are replaced, and a special module is built on the movement giving it a GMT hand. The modifications also serve to include a column wheel transfer in the movement for the chronograph. Plus, the movement is COSC Chronometer certified. Set in a tri-compax array, the chronograph is easy to see with a red hand for the subsidiary seconds dial for the main time. The GMT hand is attracting and easy to read. I like the large lume covered hour and minute hands, but feel that they are just shy of being long enough. Design wise, the watch and dial look like a mix of diver, pilot, and military style - all with that Bulgari twist.



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You can see that the rotating GMT bezel offers the ability to track a third timezone, and is also two-toned, giving the night hours a dark color, and the daylight hours a lighters color. I also like the movable lug structures that attach to the rubber strap. Overall the Bulgari Diagono X-Pro is a great watch with a neat character, and appeal for me that I haven't seen lately from Bulgari. 

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Maurice de Mauriac Moon Chronograph Watch

A particularly attractive line from Maurice de Mauriac of Zurich is this Moon Chronograph watch collection. http://www.ko-watches.net/tag-heuer-replica-45.html It comes in many different versions (see here), but is a pretty clever take on use of a Valjoux 7751 automatic movement. Seen here is the top of the line piece in solid pink gold, but the diversely customizable collection is offered in various case sizes, in various materials, with various dials.

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Tag Heuer Formula 1 Analog/Digital CAC111D Wat

 

Released a few years ago I believe, this cool looking Tag Heuer really flew under the radar for me. Some people are immediately going to dismiss it because it has an analog and digital face, but that has a lot of the appeal for me. Ever since the Omega X-33 became a cult hit, watches with good pedigree and a quality designs that use this style have fascinated me. With analog/digital version of the new Formula 1 design, Tag Heuer Replica Watch joins the ranks watches from Breitling (the Aerospace, among others), Omega, (X-33), Montblanc (Sport Titanium Digital), Bell & Ross (BR03 Type Aviation), Chopard (Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Time Attack MF), and others.

In my opinion Breitling popularized watches like this for the mainstream. Although the Aerospace watch has a quartz movement, it is highly functional, and super accurate with its ETA Superquartz movement. This sold a lot of people on the concept. Like I said, it was the Omega X-33 that I think had collectors and more enthusiast types take notice. Why all the buzz? Well when it comes down to it, you can have the convenience and functionality of a quartz watch, in the shell of a nice analog watch. Toting around a plastic quartz watch simply doesn't give you the same feeling or respect that something with a good-link metal case does. Watches like this are one part "disguise," and one part nod to the need for watches to be functional tools.

This isn't Tag Heuer's first watch of this nature - but the nicest one. The first Tag Heuer analog/digital watch that I know of is one of its older Kirium F1 models. With the new generation of Formula 1 watches, Tag Heuer brought this concept back, and I think it did so very well. First of all, as an analog watch it works nicely. Easy to read hands, along with a small hour marker scale on the inside. There is also the newer titanium rotating bezel and crown. matching the black bezel and crown are black crown guards and a black strip on the left side of the case.

The case itself is 42mm wide in steel, and came on Tag Heuer's nice looking F1 bracelet or at least two rubber strap options. Like all F1 watches, the case has a sapphire crystal and was water resistant to 200 meters. Functionally the digital part of the movement probably had a calendar, stopwatch, alarm, and second timezone. Perhaps more features as well. The lack of a ticking seconds hand was a good move on Tag's part.

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Tag Heuer watches like this are interesting, and I think this model was a bit on the rare side. At least I didn't see many of them. But it is cool, and people wanting a highly functional timepiece with Tag Heuer styling can easily look here. Original price was about $1,100 retail, but available ones are less if you can find them online.

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Breguet Classique 5157 Charity Watch

How much over retail do you think this Breguet Ref. 5157 watch will go for, for charity? With a retail price of $16,200 the 18k gold Breguet watch is currently on eBay awaiting January 9th, 2011, when the auction will end. The proceeds are said to go to the New York Philharmonic's School Partnership Program. When the money is eventually delivered,http://www.ko-watches.net/breitling-replica-25.html the children who attend schools that benefit from charity will no doubt be shocked to have received money from a man that died almost 200 years ago.

The charity sets up music education programs at New York City schools. Pretentious men and women (with fine watches) travel to underprivileged social institutions and set up "scared straight" style lectures to youth. "This man never listened to orchestra music and now he is in jail - life with out parole. Do you want that to be you?" On the other hand, this guy over here practiced piano for seven years, became an account, and now owns a Lexus hybrid... And guess which of them knows what a Breguet is!"

"You little sons of bitches, with you MP3 tracks and your iTuners wouldn't know good taste if it slapped you across the face like your mother does each time you talk back in that jive talk so popular among you young people. Trust us, the oboe is your friend, and it WILL get you laid. Unlike those pants you have dragging on the floor. I'm now gonna show you how this violin stick can be used to serenade a lost lover, or make fires in the wild during a survival situation."


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I am guessing that that is pretty much how it goes... What amuses me most is how watch brand's love to pick on eBay as the "bastion of gray marketers -" and then use it as a venue for a high-end watch charity auction. Of course eBay is so much more than that - and I personally think that educated buyers should use is all the time. See the auction link below.

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Cadence 4:20 Watch

Not that Cadence is the last brand I would have guessed may release a timepiece like this, but the sport watch brand wasn't HIGH on the list. For those needing a bold reminder when it is blaze hour, Cadence offers up the 4:20 watch. A pretty simple minimalistic design with baton hour markers and hands, http://www.watchesming.net/tag-heuer-replica-c-31.html save for a bold Arabic numeral indicator at 4:20. Actually, the indicator is at 4 o'clock, but when the hour and minute hand are touching it - the time will be 4:20.

The explanation they give for the watch is rather amusing: "If you think 4:20 is the most important time of day, this watch is for you. If you have no idea why 4:20 is a special time of day, there is nothing here for you."

Growing up in California I know exactly what it means - and it isn't tea time. It is marijuana smoking time - for those so inclined. Now you have a pretty subtle watch you can wear with a suit, but one that you can stare at and also have a daily reminder of your daily habit. Price for the Cadence 4:20 watch is $85. So basically the cost of one weekend not being high for you medical card holders.

Tell you what party people. I will give away three of these watches to the top three people who send in images of themselves doing less than sober things with your fav watch on. You get the idea. Make sure the images are things you'd be OK with me posting online (I will blur out your faces if you win). By the way, for those eager to buy one use discount code "ablogtoread" to get 25% off your next Cadence watch.

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Baume & Mercier Capeland Watches

The first time that I wrote about Baume & Mercier's new for 2011 Capeland collection watches I was a bit irritated. The reason for that sentiment was the revival of the Capeland name in a thoroughly retro collection, whereas the original Capeland watches from about a decade or so ago were much more modern. In fact, these heritage style timepieces are modeled after watches from the late 1940s, not the late 1990s. http://www.ko-watches.net/omega-replica-56.html I still feel a tender sense of nostalgia toward the original collection and would have preferred that Baume & Mercier use a different name for these watches but, aside from than that, I am stricken by the appeal of these new Capelands.

Baume & Mercier will initially offer seven variations of this model. I am sure you can find them available already. The historic look of the watches is cleverly done with two different dial styles. One is a bit more classic with pomme hands and a snailed tachymeter scale. The other is a bit more to my taste with more mid-century-style Arabic numerals and bolder colors. Still, both dial styles are very handsome and Baume & Mercier's ability to capture nostalgia is impressive. Which, in my opinion, is ironic because with the name of the watch they captured the wrong nostalgia for me.

Two case dimensions are available: 42 and 44mm wide. There are both steel and 18k rose gold versions available. My choice pick, of course, is the 44mm wide version. The dials come complete with highly curved sapphire crystals and large chronograph pushers and crown. The large crown is a symbolic nod to manually wound chronographs that, in the past, often came with the larger crowns for easier winding. Back then, watches were much more about function than fashion.

The Capeland models come with a host of dial color options including: Black and white, anthracite, gray, copper, brown, and silver. Yea, that is a lot of options. So many options, it is hard not to call this modern homage to older watches a fashion piece as Baume & Mercier is clearly aiming to appeal to a variety of "looks." Still, even as a fashion watch, it is quite handsome.



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The movement is a base Swiss ETA Valjoux 7753 automatic - which is, more or less, a 7750 placed on its side. According to Baume & Mercier, the movement has been modified by Lajoux-Perret. This process presumably adds decoration and the flyback complication. There is also an open display back allowing you to see the movement. 

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