Thursday 25 September 2014

Frederic Jouvenot Automatic Chronograph Evolution Watch

Frederic Jouvenot Automatic Chronograph Evolution Watch: Rotor On Front   watch releases

Precious little is known (to me) about then new Frederic Jouvenot watches. I would know a bit more if I was able to properly read French, and because all the press information is in a PDF... good luck trying to get me to put all that into the Google Translate tool. Good thing that a picture is worth a thousand words, because these images say a lot. The new watches will be released soon - in Basel if all goes according to plan. You can see that they are all based around the same theme and movement, but in these images there are at least two cosmetically different models. There is a distinct retro feeling from the watches. Watch maker Frederic Jouvenot is young at about 31 years old and wanted to create something new (as all young watch makers who branch-off from larger brand often do). His new movement inverts the rotor of an automatic movement and places it on the front of the watch.

From a mechanical level, the watch is nothing totally unique. A thirty minute chronograph in a bi-compax orientation makes for a n attractive dial as well as mechanical movement view in the back. The tough part of this watch was not placing the rotor in the front, it was doing so in a way that did not look silly. On that level the watch is pretty clever. I like how the rotor is carved away to give the chronograph counters an unobstructed view when the watch is in a vertical position. Further, the rotor is placed behind the main hands as to never obstruct them. Rich perlage polishing makes up the dial face which is available in different colors.

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The case itself is 18k rose rose, with at least one version featuring black gold accents (like the bezel). My favorite case is the one with the large skeletonized lugs, reminiscent of 1970's watch designs with that modern twist. The lugs on the 44mm case have that integrated look and just match up well with all the polishing all over the case and dial. This watch is like two steps away from being a blingy watch, almost, but not quite. I can see how the wrong crowd will mistake the automatic movement rotor on the face of the watch for Frederic Jouvenot's take on "wheel spinners" for  watch. As for the name of the watch, it is pretty silly, "Automatic Chronograph Evolution." Come on... really? Lets get with the time and give it a name that isn't merely descriptive. "Yea, I know it is an automatic chronograph, but what is it called?!" Hopefully at launch there will be a new name as well.

The focus of this watch is to resolve one of those watch enthusiast dilemmas. "I like the convenience of an automatic watch, but I also like looking at an unobstructed movement." When you invest in an expensive mechanical watch, you wish to view the hand decorated and assembled movement as much as possible. The movement itself reminds me a lot of what you see in the back of an Omega SpeedMaster Moonwatch. Do you agree? This limited edition line will start with a line of just 88 pieces. This is enough to judge if there is enough interest in the brand to move forward with more models. I can't wait to see some actual images of this pretty handsome looking watch that does a good job of getting the "front mounted rotor" right.  The mixture of gold, black, and red trim is very tasteful and utterly masculine. There will be a lot of interested people in Mr. Jouvenot's watches. Their biggest rival right now in terms of functions and appearance is Perrelet, so we will see how the two compare. I look forward to seeing more soon.


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Citizen Astrodea Stargazing Watch

Citizen Astrodea Stargazing Watch Collection   watch releases

It takes the right type of person to enjoy the Citizen Astrodea watch collection. Your typical watch lover or nerd might not get it. You might need to built-in celestial appreciation or a career in astronomy to get giddy about a star map on your wrist. I am not really any of these of these types, but I still find a lot of fascination in this watch. http://www.watcheshe.com/breitling-watches-replica-c-28.html I am also not going to explain all the functions of the watches (as there are two main versions). One is a fancy star chart, while the other is one of the most comprehensive moon phase watches out there. Lets look at the celestial version first. Basically, the entire dial spins (slowly of course, in 'real time'). Based on this movement you can tell a lot of things. These include what you can expect to see in the sky given the time of the year, including distances of stars and planet and astronomic occasions.  Oh, and while there are many versions of the steel watches out there (such as blue or cream colored dials and some with gold plating), there are also northern and southern hemisphere versions of the dial apparently available.

Then you have the newer Astrodea Moon Phase watch (Moonsign watch). This uses the same theme, but focuses on the moon. This watch really has a ton of information as well. You get the age of the moon, lunar cycle (moon phase) , the positions of the sun and moon, sunrise and sunset and the sun's position at those times throughout the year, as well as the positions of the starts Sirius and Arcturus. This watch features two discs, one large disc and a smaller inner disc for the age of the moon (each month).

I wonder how many Astrodea owners carry around the 10x magnifying glass (included) with them, you really need it to appreciate the ridiculous level of detail in this beautiful watch face. Something tells me that looking at the watch might be a bit profound each time to glance at your wrist. Citizen was so clever in making the hands thin, but stand out well when you are trying to tell the time. As you can imagine, this niche line of watches is rare outside of Japan, though its uniqueness has made it available online. Prices are about $500 for the various Citizen Astrodea watches.

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Thursday 18 September 2014

Bell & Ross BR01-92 Gold Ingot Limited Edition Watch

Bell & Ross BR01 92 Gold Ingot Limited Edition Watch   watch releases
Short post, but here the images say it all. If there was ever a gaudy watch that I wanted, it would be this watch. I typically shy away from euphemistically decadent watches such as this, but I am oddly drawn to the golden hues and texturing of this special limited edition watch from Bell & Ross. Take the extremely popular Bell & Ross BR01 series, make it out of gold, and make it after gold bars, and you have the Bell & Ross BR01-92 Gold Ingot. It is not just another gold watch, but a commentary on luxury itself.  The entire 46mm wide case is constructed in 18k rose gold, and so are the hands, dial, and hour markers.

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Special pyramid texturing on the dial really makes the watch special. Just a gold watch would be one thing, but this is a watch with a gold personality, and that is not just me sounding cheesy. It retains everything you like about the Bell & Ross instrument look and appeal. I like how the gold hands are skeletonized so that you can see the gold underneath. The numerals are gold on gold, for that golden look. Gold screws stand in for the typical steel, actually I don't need to mention all this, you get the point - GOLD!

Inside is the same Swiss ETA 2892A2 automatic mechanical movement powering the watch, while the shiny black alligator strap works well. I think a  brown strap would look even a bit nicer against the rose gold, don't you think? The Bell & Ross BR01-92 Gold Ingot Limited Edition watch is available in select place to select people. This is the gold watch to own for people who would not otherwise shell out for a gold watch but suddenly must do so. There you have it, don't make me yell "gold" again.


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Hamilton Seaview Automatic Diver Watch W

Hamilton Seaview Automatic Diver Watch   watch releases
What is different about this Hamilton Seaview Automatic Diver watch? I thought about this question for a little while before writing anything down. I know I have seen the nautical almost art deco themed font used for the numbering before. The font is sort of an amalgamation of everything ocean-worthy and futuristic from 1920 -1970. Gently shaded, the large applied number totally make the watch. Without them it would be just another passable for forgettable Hamilton watch. The watch is pretty big too at 46mm wide, and the relatively small numbers on the rotating diver's bezel don't help the large wrist footprint. But that is OK, you want a nice looking watch like this to standout.

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While it is has been hit and miss with me in regard to new Hamilton watches as of late, the volume sales leader for Swatch Group continues to push out a few good designs each year.  I'd like to think that this is one of them. The case is PVD steel, but not all of it black. The bezel and face are however dark colored, and they play off the steel colored lugs and dial attachments (hands and indexes) really well. Another key feature to the good looks is the brown strap with a little bit of contrast stitching. I wouldn't have assumed the color combination went together well until I saw the final result. It gives it a very masculine "I don't care about fashion but still like to look good" design. The crystal is sapphire, and the watch is a true diver with 300 meters of water resistance. Inside is a sturdy ETA 2824-2 automatic mechanical movement that ought to work just fine in this watch. Best part is the price. At 645 euros retail, expect to see a US street price of $400 -$500.


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Thursday 11 September 2014

Seiko Spring Drive Spacewalk Limited Edition Watch

Seiko Spring Drive Spacewalk Limited Edition Watch To be Auctioned Off   sales auctions

This is one of the few times I have seen a watch at auction and thought to myself "damn, I need to be there for that." This is the very ultra cool Seiko Spring Drive Spacewalk watch. There are only six of these watches in the world, and Seiko made them to celebrate Richard Garriot's 'celebutrip' to the ISS (International Space Station) with the Russians. The story is actually kinda sad if you ask me. Richard Garriot became famous as a video game designer. Fame came with the Ultima series of computer RPG games, and most lately, the MMORPG game Tabula Rasa was supposedly interesting, but a flop. Anyone, Garriot become a millionaire and watches so much to go to space. His dad was an astronaut, and he just wanted the same thing for himself. Garriot reportedly spent the bulk of his fortune to get the Russians to take him to space. Lots of training and quasi-gulag living, and he did it. Maybe a bit anti-climactic... but maybe he can eventually turn it into another marketable game franchise.

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I don't exactly know why Seiko wanted to make a watch for the occasion, but it was around the time the Spring Drive movement was still new, and they needed some publicity. Whatever the reason, they made this awesome timepiece, specially made to be used in free space (not just in a pressurized shuttle). The watch uses the Spring Drive movement and is in a large 48.7 titanium case. Big and very light at 92.5 grams. The watch comes on the fabric Velcro strap and is made to be worn over a large space suit (as you can see).

The obvious watch to compare this Seiko Spacewalk watch to is the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moon Watch. The Seiko has a ton of advantages in my opinion. Sapphire crystal, much more accurate movement that is also an automatic (Spring Drive is basically a mechanical movement but it has a quartz regulator as opposed to a balance wheel), GMT second timezone hand, power reserve indicator, date (!), and probably much better lume. Not to mention that it weighs less. The pushers are massive and placed at the top of the case so that you can press them with gloves, while the crown is easy to turn, and also on the top. The dial is not only easy to read, but very cool looking (neat blue glowing GMT hand).

Seiko wanted to make 100 of these watches, but I don't think they got around to it. According to Antiquorum Seiko only made 6 of these watches. Which is a damn shame, cause I want one so badly. One of these timepieces is going to be auctioned off by Antiquorum in September. Estimates are that the watch will go for between $10,000 - $20,000. The watch will never be the classic watch that the Omega Moon Watch is, but it is certainly something important. Glad I don't live in New York, or I would be at that auction next month.


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Swarovski Octea Sport Ladies’ Watch

Swarovski Octea Sport Ladies Watch   watch releases

While other brands are scaling back and trying to focus on how to stay relevant in these times - Swarovski is taking their beloved crystals and developing their own line of watches, to properly exhibit the beauty - on a timepiece.My initial thought upon seeing the new line of watches from Swarovski was that it looks so familiar... I tried to think of the exact predominantly women's brands that it reminded me of, and then I realized - all of them.

You cannot escape those immediate parallels. The comparisons to the Dior Christal Collection and the Chanel J12 are too clear. But, with changing markets and a severe change in consumer spending, it is adaptations like this - with crystal instead of sapphires or diamonds - that will really help people and brands carry through to the other side of this recession. Give them what they want - compromise a little it - and still get a great product.

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While the line is still in its infancy, Swarovski is already proving how in touch they are with women, fashion, and timepiece trends, by designing various, fashion-forward and classic collections. With that in mind, Swarovski has created a Sports Collection that actually impresses me. I'm usually very critical of Sports Watches for Women - as SO many brands have created such out of touch ones. But even with the expected addition of Crystals here, it works.

Too often Women's Sports Watches are just smaller versions of men's models. Or, a men's model is recreated smaller and with dashes of pink. Because all sporty women like pink... right.... Which is definitely not a fault of Swarovski, but maybe the whole subset? Either way, this new Swarovski Octa Sports Ladies' Watch reflects the consistent trends of women's Sports watches today, in a very moderately priced, yet visually appealing case.

The Swarovski Octea Sports Lady features their beautiful crystals encircling a 39mm case! That's pretty big! It's solid - hefty - stainless steel with crystals... You must be a strong woman to wear this. And an adventurous one at that! With a traditional diver's watch as its inspiration, the Swarovski Octea Sports Ladies' Watch is complete with rotating bezel, to keep track of your dive, and a very easy to read date indicator.


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Tuesday 2 September 2014

Tiret Gotham Watches

Tiret Gotham Watches   watch releases

Wow, these are pretty wild I have to say. From the odd and rare Tiret New York watch company comes the Gotham collection of watches. Here are the Chronograph and Power reserve models, and I hear there is a GMT version as well. Based on Batman's version of New York, http://www.watcheshe.com/breitling-watches-replica-c-28.html the Gotham is a mixture of square modernism, art deco, and sheer horological goodness. I would wear the thing for sheer novelty value.

These are not brand new watches, nor are they cheap watches. Lots of white gold (or other golds) and other fine materials (steel, ceramic, natural rubber, optional oodles of precious gems) make up the Gotham watches, and probably a lot of prissy attitudes and luxury margins. But who cares, you'll probably never even see ones of these watches in the flesh. The only places I am aware they are sold is in places like Dubai and Burjuman. Where cost is of little issue to some people. The name of the brand is Tired New York - not sure what the connection to New York is - oh well.

Would Batman wear this watch? Maybe while polishing up the Batmobile. Not really something for Bruce Wayne to be seen in on more pedestrian outings. I heard Tiret say something interesting about the watches. They don't want someone thinking about wanting to buy the watch. They would prefer someone get it on an impulse. Wow, way to stand by the "lasting value" of your products. Guess I'll find one of these while waiting to checkout at the super market. 

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Cartier Santos 100 XL Rose Gold With Rubber Strap Watch

Cartier Santos 100 XL Rose Gold With Rubber Strap Watch Available On James List    sales auctions

Cartier Replica watches are undeniably sexy and have an excellent brand image. Not always the watch for when you want something horologically interesting on your wrist, they are a great default watch for days you want something "simply nice" on your wrist. Still a jeweler in spirit, Cartier strives for that polished high-end look as opposed to being overtly avant garde. Conservative and nice is their main design drive.

My personal favorite line in the Cartier watch collection is the Santos. The 100 XL is their larger version of the watch, the standard model is a bit small for my tastes. At 38mm wide and tall the square 100 Xl Santos does not sound too large, but as a square shape it is a good substantial size on one's wrist without being silly in size. Of the coolest versions is this 18k rose gold and rubber model. While it is very sporty, the black with gold look is beautiful. I love how the Cartier Roman numeral style melds with the hues. Really attractive with a timeless quality to it.

Compared to many other watches out there Cartier watches are simple, but the devil is in the polish and the details. The refined designs are flattering to the wearer and function well as timepieces. The smooth sides of the square Santos are enhanced by screws on the rubber coated black bezel and on the segmented rubber strap. Contrasting finishes of polish and brushed finished adorn the surfaces of the case. The dial is angular and sharp in its lines, while the case itself has softer curves to it. A utilitarian feel comes from the bolt style crown - finished off with a jewelry style black jewel cabochon in it.

Inside the watch is an automatic mechanical movement and the watch itself is water resistant to 100 meters. This is a higher-end sports model from Cartier as it is in gold, and there is also a chronograph version available. You may opt for an alligator strap that I am sure can be attained (watch has a 22mm wide strap). Retail price is a bout $20,000, but you can usually find it from $15,000 - $18,000. All part of the cost of Cartier ownership.

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